Setting Types

Setting is the decision people spend the least time on and regret the most. A stone that is beautiful in a photograph can be a nuisance in real life if it sits too high, catches on clothing, or leaves a point exposed.

It is a different decision from ring style and from diamond shape, although the three interact. Some shapes only work properly in certain settings, and we say so below. Each setting below has its own full guide, linked from its name. The International Gem Society covers the same families in more technical detail.

• Four prong. Four slim claws grip the stone near the girdle. Lets in the most light of any setting and shows the most of the stone. Slightly less secure than six, and on a round centre it makes the outline read a little squarer.
• Six prong. More metal on the stone, more security, and a rounder-looking outline. The classic choice for a round brilliant above a carat.
• V-prong. A prong bent into a V that wraps a point completely instead of gripping from one side. Not optional on a pear, a marquise, a Dutch marquise or a heart.
• Bezel. A continuous metal rim around the girdle. The most secure setting there is, the lowest profile, and the best answer for anyone who works with their hands. It shows slightly less of the stone from the side.
• Half bezel. Metal on two sides only, open at the others. A compromise that keeps some light coming in from the sides while still protecting the widest points.
• Flush, or gypsy. The stone is sunk into the metal so its table sits level with the surface. Nothing protrudes at all. The most durable setting made, and the standard for men's rings and signet faces.
• Tension. The stone appears to float, held by pressure from the two ends of the band. Striking, and the least forgiving to resize later.
• Basket and trellis. Not a grip so much as the structure underneath it. A basket cradles the pavilion in a woven frame; a trellis crosses the prongs so they appear to weave. Both raise the stone and let light in from below.
• Cathedral. Arches rise from the band to meet the setting, giving height and a visible side profile. Beautiful, and it sits tall, so think about the wedding band before choosing it.

• Pave. Tiny diamonds held by minute beads of metal, set so close that the band reads as a continuous surface of light. The most common way to add brilliance without adding centre carat. Browse the pave collection.
• Micro pave. The same technique with smaller stones and finer beads. More delicate, more sparkle, and more skill required to set it well.
• Channel. Stones sit in a groove between two walls of metal, with nothing between them. Smooth, snag-free and extremely durable, which makes it a favourite for wedding bands worn every day.
• Bar. Thin bars of metal separate each stone while leaving the sides open. More light than a channel, more structure than pave.
• Flush, or gypsy. The stone is sunk into the metal so its table sits level with the surface. Nothing protrudes at all. The standard for men's rings and signet faces, and a good choice for a promise ring worn daily.
• Halo. A ring of accents around the centre stone, adding visible size and framing the outline.
• Hidden halo. The same tier tucked beneath the girdle where only the wearer knows it is there. It lifts the stone and adds light from the side without touching the silhouette.
• Cluster. Several stones arranged to read as one larger shape. A way to get visual size for a lower carat cost.

The shank is the band itself, and its shape changes how the whole ring reads.

• Straight. A constant width all the way round. Simple, strong and easy to pair with a wedding band.
• Tapered. Narrower at the back than at the setting, so the centre stone looks larger and the ring sits more comfortably between the fingers.
• Split shank. The band divides as it approaches the setting. Frames the centre stone and makes a modest carat weight look more substantial.
• Twisted or bypass. Two strands cross rather than meet. Softer and more organic than a straight band.
• Knife edge. The band rises to a ridge along the top, catching a line of light. Slimmer-looking than its actual weight.
• Comfort fit. The inside of the band is domed rather than flat, so it slides over the knuckle more easily. Worth asking for on anything wider than about 4mm, and see our ring size guide for how width affects fit.

• Does the shape have a point or a corner? Pear, marquise, Dutch marquise, heart and princess all have something that can chip. A V-prong or a bezel is the answer, and we build them that way as standard.
• How does the wearer use their hands? Gardening, climbing, nursing, lifting. If the answer is anything active, go low profile and choose bezel, flush or channel over raised prongs and pave.
• How much light do you want? Prongs let in the most, bezels the least. On a step cut such as an emerald that matters less, because the stone was never relying on rapid sparkle.
• What will sit next to it? A cathedral, a high basket or a hidden halo may not let a wedding band sit flush. Decide before, not after, and see curved bands.
• Will it need resizing? Full eternity bands and tension settings are the hardest to resize. A half eternity keeps the option open.

• Prong setting. Four, six or eight claws, V-prongs for pointed shapes, and when prongs wear down.
• Bezel setting. The most secure setting there is, compared point by point against prongs.
• Pave setting. Micro, French and U-cut pave, and the five signs of good bench work.
• Channel setting. Diamonds between two walls, with nothing at all to snag.
• Tension setting. True tension against tension style, and which one you actually want.
• Flush setting. Gypsy set stones level with the metal. The toughest setting made.
• Cathedral setting. Arches, height, and why it is the home of the hidden halo.
• Cluster setting. Many stones reading as one, and how it differs from a halo.